They do not want to flaunt the most extravagant fashions in areas of the world where living conditions have deteriorated severely and general poverty is the worst. But a group in Congo called The Society of Ambianceurs and Elegant People, or La Sape for short, is challenging those common expectations. Documentary The Congo Dandies examines their commitment to maintaining a high quality of life, not just the clothes they wear.
The group’s origins can be traced back to the end of World War II, when Congolese soldiers returned home and brought with them influences from Parisian designer fashions. The tradition they inherited after the war continues today. In the film’s first moments, we’re introduced to Maxime, a husband and father who lives in utterly modest circumstances, yet strides around town in a perfect bright red designer outfit. His playboy looks were carefully cultivated; it took him almost two years to save enough money to afford his high-end Weston shoes.
From the moment he stepped out and struggled in an impoverished neighborhood, it was clear that Maxime’s obsession with fashion was a way of overcoming the poverty around him. It imbues him with self-respect and dignity, and infects those he meets with pride and hope.
Maxim is just one of many residents who have indulged in this expensive grooming habit. The group often hosts social gatherings where they compare their ensembles with equal parts envy and admiration. For these men, the cost of their clothing is equated to the fashion reputation they want to protect. They refuse to settle for cheaper knockoffs because it would compromise the integrity of their promise.
What is most fascinating about Congolese Playboy is its portrayal of stark contrasts. These men look like they just stepped out of a trendy luxury nightclub in Paris, but they’re driven in every direction by decay and desperation. The lavish prices they were willing to pay for their clothes were considered obscene in some respects, especially given the living conditions of their families.
